Daimon Bistro Review: Style Over Substance

Overall: 4/5
Food: 3/5
Environment: 4/5
Service: 4/5

If what you crave is the promise of idiosyncrasies within traditional dishes like Char Siu Bao or Xiao Long Bao, Daimon Bistro is the place to go. Everything in Daimon, a restaurant that serves new takes on classic HK dishes, calls for an audience that seeks fresh and imaginative bites

Although décor is not something that is (usually) touched upon during a restaurant review, Daimon Bistro's interior design truly serves to accentuate the food that it tries to serve. Alvin Leung,  a celebrity chef also known as 'the Demon Chef', personally oversaw the interior design of Daimon Bistro so that it could most closely resemble Kowloon Walled City. Upon entering the restaurant, you immediately notice the neon lights, the graffiti splayed on the walls, and the dim lighting cast upon the seats in the restaurant, representing a seedier side of Hong Kong that mostly does not exist anymore.  This design truly sets the tone of the restaurant to complement the dishes that it serves you. Slightly gritty, but charming nonetheless.

On to the food! The standouts here are Leung's take on chicken and waffles, the wagyu beef and truffle clay pot rice, and the under the bridge squid.

Wagyu Beef and Truffle Clay Pot Rice

Leung's take on chicken and waffles is essentially popcorn chicken on Hong Kong bubble waffles, with a kungpao sauce drizzled over. The concept’s simplicity is a little disappointing for a restaurant that looks so interesting on the surface, but the execution is nevertheless fantastic. The bubble waffle and the popcorn chicken are both crispy and compliment each other very well, whilst the kungpao sauce acts as a substitute for syrup and adds delicious flavor to the duo.

Despite my deep devotion to any form of chicken and waffles, the wagyu beef and truffle clay pot rice really stole the show. At first glance, it is not the prettiest dish, but once you mix it all together and begin feasting on it, the splendor of this dish begins to reveal itself. If  one word could be used to describe this dish, it would be umami. The delicious, protein-y flavor provided by the wagyu beef is only heightened by the small pieces of truffle in the dish. It also goes so well with something I'm sure we all appreciate: rice. Simply put, this dish is fantastic. As long as you are able to eat meat, get this dish. It promises satisfaction.

On the other hand, the under the bridge squid is a dish that continuously grows on you. The flavor was a little strange  at first, but this I feel represents the essence of what Daimon is trying to do. The flavor is Thai-inspired, with lime and lemongrass taking the center stage on your taste buds. It is tangy and sour, and a joy to eat. This  is mostly because of how well this squid is cooked. The dish is squid tempura with sauces drizzled on top, and the taste of the squid is soft and supple, and not at all rubbery. Part of the reason why I was so satisfied with this dish is that so often, the squid I eat is rubbery and hard to chew, and does not make me want to go back for more destroying my appetite for more?. This squid is the exact opposite. I'm not a squid connoisseur, so take my word on what perfect squid tastes like with a grain of salt, but this dish was still pretty amazing.

Under the Bridge Squid

Although there were many high notes to Daimon Bistro, overall, the menu was pretty lacking and oftentimes a little disappointing. The menu and portions are small, which, while to be expected of a restaurant located on the Bund, feels very removed from what I recall of my favourite Cantonese dishes. Some dishes, like the mushroom xiao long bao, had such a strange and potent flavor that it was impossible to enjoy, whereas others, like the iberico ham clay pot rice, had little of anything other than rice, rice, and more rice. On a positive note, Daimon Bistro is very cheap for a restaurant on the Bund. Most of it's dishes are under 200 RMB, with a few main courses being more than that. Most of the dim sum dishes are under 50RMB, which is pretty spectacular. It is definitely a good pick for anybody who wants to enjoy the fantastic views of the Bund, but the lighting is pretty bad within the restaurant. This was understandably to attain a seedier atmosphere, but then it was hard to enjoy how well presented the food was. All of this made me feel like the interior design stole the show, not the food. The service was also a little lacking. They were always very polite, but did not come to check up on us at all and we always had to wave for them to come over. Of course, none of this makes Daimon a bad restaurant, and despite its flaws, Daimon itself is still a pretty special treat. If you're looking to eat somewhere interesting, this is the place to go.

Donna Qi

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The Echo: Daimon Bistro Review: Style Over Substance
Daimon Bistro Review: Style Over Substance
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The Echo
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